Dame Jilly Cooper's beloved Rutshire Chronicles have finally come to life on Disney+, and much of that magic was filmed right here in the Cotswolds. From the honey-stoned market town of Tetbury transformed into the fictional 1980s town of Cotchester to the sweeping estates and polo lawns that gave Rivals its unmistakable glamour, the Cotswolds is every bit as spectacular in real life as it appears on screen. Whether you're chasing filming locations, channelling your inner Rupert Campbell-Black on horseback, or simply indulging in the kind of unapologetic luxury that runs through every page of Jilly Cooper's novels, this is your guide to a Rivals-inspired escape.
Where to Stay
The grand country houses and estates of Rivals didn't come from nowhere this is Cotswolds country, where seriously impressive places to stay are simply part of the landscape. Think sweeping driveways, spa treatments, Michelin-starred dining, and horses available on request.
Lucknam Park If Rivals had a hotel, it would look a great deal like Lucknam Park. This stunning Palladian manor near Bath sits at the end of a mile-long avenue of beech trees and oozes the kind of refined, effortless luxury that Jilly Cooper wrote about so lovingly. The hotel's equestrian programme is particularly fitting for Rivals fans horseback riding has been part of the Lucknam Park experience since the 1930s, with escorted hacks across the estate and through the surrounding Cotswolds countryside for everyone from beginners to experienced riders. Add a Michelin-starred restaurant, an exceptional spa, and beautifully appointed rooms and suites, and you have the perfect Rivals base. Explore Lucknam Park's equestrian experiences
Cowley Manor Bold, contemporary, and utterly confident Cowley Manor is the Cotswolds' answer to a house party that never quite ends. Set in 55 acres of Grade II listed parkland with a spectacular spa, it has the energy and edge of a Rivals gathering, without taking itself too seriously. Perfect for those who want glamour with a twist of irreverence.
Lords of the Manor Tucked into the village of Upper Slaughter, Lords of the Manor is classic Cotswolds romanticism a 17th-century former rectory with walled gardens, exceptional food, and an atmosphere of quiet, considered luxury. Exactly the sort of place where Rivals characters would retreat between scandals.
Calcot & Spa One of the Cotswolds' most beloved family-friendly retreats, Calcot Manor is all warmth, good food, and genuine welcome. Its spa is one of the finest in the region, and the setting in the rolling south Cotswolds countryside is timelessly beautiful.
Burleigh Court This intimate country house hotel near Minchinhampton commands breathtaking views over the Woodchester Valley. Quietly elegant, deeply comfortable, and sitting in the heart of the South Cotswolds landscape that appears throughout the series, it is a wonderful, unhurried retreat.
Hare & Hounds, Westonbirt Set on the edge of the famous Westonbirt Arboretum near Tetbury the very town used as the filming location for Cotchester the Hare & Hounds is a handsome country hotel with a genuine sense of place. Its proximity to the key Rivals filming locations makes it an ideal choice for fans wanting to retrace the story.
No. 131, Cheltenham For something livelier and more town-centred, No. 131 on the Promenade in Cheltenham brings a fun, boutique energy to the Cotswolds stay. Think bold interiors, great cocktails, and a buzzy atmosphere more Rivals after-party than country retreat, and all the better for it.
Greenway House Hotel Agatha Christie's former holiday home, situated near Cheltenham, brings its own layer of intrigue and literary history to a Rivals trip a fitting nod to a region that has long inspired great British storytelling.
Estelle Manor Estelle Manor offers an exclusive, members-style retreat in the Oxfordshire Cotswolds private, beautifully designed, and with the kind of discreet luxury that Rivals characters would have considered entirely normal.
Hyll For those who find their Rivals inspiration on the page as much as the screen, Hyll offers a literary connection to the Cotswolds a fitting place to curl up with the full Rutshire Chronicles and remember that it all started with Jilly Cooper's imagination, right here in this corner of England.
Things to Do
The world of Rivals is one of big personalities, big ambitions, and big landscapes. Fortunately, the Cotswolds delivers on all three.
Explore Tetbury the Real Cotchester The historic market town of Tetbury was transformed during filming into the fictional 1980s town of Cotchester, and it is every bit as charming in its real, present-day form. Wander the elegant streets, browse independent shops, admire the distinctive Market Hall, and take in the architecture that made it the perfect stand-in for Cooper's imagined Rutshire. Tetbury is also home to a remarkable concentration of antique dealers ideal for hunting out your own 1980s treasure to take home. Explore everything Tetbury has to offer
Chavenage House One of the most atmospheric filming locations used in Rivals, Chavenage House near Tetbury is an Elizabethan manor that opens its doors to visitors on certain dates. Walking through rooms that doubled as fictional Rutshire interiors is a genuinely special experience for fans of the series.
Berkeley Castle Another key Rivals filming location, Berkeley Castle is one of England's oldest and most complete medieval castles and has been home to the Berkeley family for nearly 900 years. The castle, gardens, and butterfly house make for a wonderfully rich day out.
Polo No Rivals experience is complete without polo. The sport runs through Cooper's novels like a gold thread, and the Cotswolds is one of England's great heartlands for the game.
- Cirencester Park Polo Club / Bathurst Estate one of the oldest and most prestigious polo clubs in the country, set within the magnificent Bathurst Estate parkland in Cirencester.
- Beaufort Polo Club one of the most famous clubs in the world, and reportedly a filming location for Rivals Series 2. The Beaufort Polo School offers lessons and courses for all levels.
- Long Dole Polo polo lessons in a stunning Cotswolds setting.
- Cotswold Polo Academy offering polo discovery days and lessons for beginners and improvers alike.
Clay Shooting Ian Coley Shooting Ground For a quintessentially Cotswolds rural pursuit with genuine Rivals credentials, Ian Coley Shooting Ground near Andoversford is one of the finest in the country. Whether you're a seasoned shot or picking up a gun for the first time, this is a memorable day out in the heart of the countryside.
Wychwood Bike Polo For something a little more unexpected and a lot more fun, the Wychwood Bike Polo group brings a gloriously eccentric twist to the polo theme in the Wychwood villages. Rivals characters would probably raise an eyebrow then ask to join in.
Longborough Festival Opera Jilly Cooper's world has always had a cultured edge, and the Cotswolds delivers with Longborough Festival Opera a world-class opera festival set in a purpose-built opera house on a private estate. Entirely unexpected, entirely wonderful, and the kind of thing a Rivals character would claim to attend every year.
Bookshops & Literary Trails The Cotswolds is Jilly Cooper country she lived in the area for decades and drew on its landscape, community, and characters for her novels. The region has a rich literary culture, with wonderful independent bookshops, regular book festivals, and a tradition of authors making their homes here. Browse our guide to Cotswolds bookshops and pick up the complete Rutshire Chronicles while you're at it.
Vintage & Antique Shopping Hunt for your own piece of 1980s glamour in the Cotswolds' exceptional antique shops and vintage boutiques. The region has one of the highest concentrations of antique dealers in England, and Stroud's vintage shopping trail is particularly good for finding the decade's distinctive style.
Experiences
Go beyond sightseeing and throw yourself into the Cotswolds the Rivals way with style, a little adrenaline, and a healthy disregard for doing things quietly.
Cotswold Alpacas Jilly Cooper's rural Rutshire is alive with animals, and a walk with the Cotswold Alpacas is a charming and surprisingly therapeutic way to experience the countryside at its most gentle.
Ace Squadron For those who prefer their Rivals-style drama at altitude, Ace Squadron offers aviation experiences that bring a taste of genuine sky-high adventure to the Cotswolds. Not unlike the kind of bold, unexpected choices that Rupert Campbell-Black might make on a Tuesday. Ace Squadron →
Combat & Paintball When the Rivals drama gets too much or not nearly enough Combat Splat Paintball offers a thoroughly satisfying way to work it out. Enormous fun for groups.
Cotswold Canoe Hire Trade the polo lawn for the river and see the Cotswolds from the water. Cotswold Canoe Hire offers a peaceful, beautiful way to explore the landscape at your own pace.
Spas The Cotswolds does indulgence exceptionally well. From the world-class spa at Lucknam Park to afternoon teas in honey-stoned village tea rooms, this is a region that understands the restorative power of doing very little, very beautifully.
Dunkerton's Cider & Holland Cooper Two Cotswold names with genuine character Dunkerton's produces exceptional cider from their Gloucestershire orchards, while Holland Cooper has built a fashion brand from the region's rural spirit. Both are worth seeking out as part of a proper Cotswolds experience.
Tour the Locations Guided Tours Several excellent tour operators run Cotswolds experiences that can be tailored to take in the key Rivals filming locations. Cotswold Tours & Travels, CJP Tours, In & Beyond Bath, and Go Cotswolds all offer knowledgeable, enjoyable ways to explore the region ideal if you'd rather leave the map-reading to someone else.
Where to Eat
The Cotswolds eats well. From Michelin-starred elegance to proper village pubs, the region's food scene has the range and quality to match any Rivals dinner party.
Restaurant Hywel Jones at Lucknam Park One of the finest restaurants in the west of England, Restaurant Hywel Jones holds a Michelin star and sits at the heart of the Lucknam Park experience. The cooking is precise, seasonal, and deeply rooted in the best British produce the kind of dinner that turns an evening into a memory.
The Walled Garden Restaurant, Lucknam Park For something a little more relaxed, Lucknam Park's Walled Garden Restaurant offers beautiful, casual dining in a setting that feels genuinely magical in the warmer months.
Afternoon Tea across the Cotswolds Rivals runs on excess, and few things embody Cotswolds indulgence quite like afternoon tea done properly. From the grand hotel drawing rooms to the prettiest village tea rooms, the region has options to suit every level of appetite and ambition.
Filming Locations to Visit
Tetbury the Real Cotchester Tetbury is the heart of the Rivals Cotswolds story. The entire town was used as a filming location to represent the fictional 1980s town of Cotchester in Series 1, with its distinctive streetscape, independent shops, and Georgian architecture creating the perfect period backdrop. It remains one of the most rewarding places to visit in the South Cotswolds not just for fans of the show, but for anyone who loves a beautiful English market town.
Chavenage House, near Tetbury This remarkably intact Elizabethan manor house, just outside Tetbury, appeared as a key filming location in Rivals. Open to visitors on selected days, Chavenage has a centuries-deep sense of atmosphere and history that no amount of set dressing could manufacture. The house has become a favourite with film and television productions over the years and it is easy to see why.
Berkeley Castle, Gloucestershire One of England's great surviving medieval castles, Berkeley Castle was another significant filming location for Rivals. The castle has stood for nearly 900 years and remains home to the Berkeley family a living, breathing piece of English history that feels entirely in keeping with the world Cooper created.
A Stately Home in Gloucestershire The rolling Gloucestershire countryside provided several of the show's grandest settings including a significant stately home that hosted the production across multiple filming blocks. The county's highways team and local communities worked closely with the Rivals crew, and that spirit of welcome is very much part of what makes the Cotswolds such a rewarding place to visit.
Beaufort Polo Club Reportedly a filming location for Rivals Series 2, the Beaufort Polo Club is one of the most famous polo clubs in the world and sits in beautiful Gloucestershire countryside. Whether or not your visit coincides with a match, the setting alone is worth the journey.
